Grand Teton National Park & Jackson Hole, WY – June 1-30, 2015

Hope you enjoyed our last blog post highlighting our adventure in the south entrance to Yellowstone National Park. This blog post is about everything else we did in the month of June during our stay at the Grand Teton Park RV Park in Moran, WY.  There was never a dull moment!

Grand Teton National Park

Few landscapes in the world are as striking and memorable as that of Grand Teton National Park. While Grand Teton rises 13,770 feet abruptly from the valley floor,   the Tetons offer a testament to the power and complexity of nature. The mountains, valleys, lakes, rivers and skies are home to diverse and abundant plants and animals.   It is a place to observe wildlife and scenery, enjoy the peacefulness and appreciate the conservation management of these lands.

This spectacular mountain range and the desire to protect it resulted in the establishment of Grand Teton National Park in 1929. Through the vision of and generous philanthropy of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., additional lands were added, creating the present day park in 1950.

Moose-Wilson Corridor

We decided to take a drive through the Moose-Wilson Corridor, a 10,300 acre corridor in the southwest corner of Grand Teton National Park.  Moose Wilson Road dissects the corridor and is the primary access to canyons, preserves, trailheads and historic districts. The drive on this narrow scenic road was beautiful and provides outstanding wildlife viewing opportunities. We encountered a cow moose with her calf just outside our windows.

Kayaking on Jenny Lake

There are grizzly bears and black bears in Yellowstone and Grand Teton so Sharon was reluctant to hiking or kayaking.  Especially since a park ranger was killed by a grizzly bear while hiking alone!  It is advised that you hike in groups of 3 or more. But being the outdoorsman that he is, Mike talked Sharon into kayaking on Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park! Sharon had no regrets, as kayaking along the Teton Range on Jenny Lake was awesome! Cascade Canyon was the prominent feature of the Teton Range.

After we secured the kayaks atop the Jeep, we stopped at a pull-out to see the lake from a different perspective!

Scenic Float Trip on the Snake River

We have experienced whitewater rafting on the Pacuare River in Costa Rica with Class 4 rapids. We also enjoyed rafting with the Nantahala Outdoor Center down a rock and roll section of the Ocoee River in Tennessee. In addition, Mike did a guy trip and kayaked on the Class 3 section of the Chattooga River in Georgia (most recognized for its depiction in the film “Deliverance.” 

Since we’ve been there and done that, today we decided to take a 13-mile “scenic float” down the Snake River. We started our day with a Boatman’s Breakfast of burritos, muffins, oatmeal, fruit, coffee and juice at the Mad River Boathouse in Jackson Hole. We departed by van, raft in tow and headed to the river 2 miles south of town where we launched the 18’3” raft at the Wilson Bridge Boat Ramp.

With our camera and binoculars we joined our guide and four other people to experience a trip through braided river channels and sand bars, along pristine landscape.  While our guide navigated through mild rapids he shared the history, geology and wildlife of the region.  We especially enjoyed the eagles perched in trees along the way!

JACKSON HOLE

The Jackson Hole Food Tour

We can’t pass up a food tour for a unique culinary experience wherever we go. What better way to sample the food of local restaurants and the history of the town. Clarke Todd, co-founder and co-owner of The Jackson Hole Food Tour was our guide on June 20 that took us to Bin 22, Café Genevieve, Lotus Café, Sweetwater Restaurant, Gather and Persephone Bakery!

We met at Bin 22 where we enjoyed a glass of wine!

From there we walked to Café Genevieve located in a historic log cabin and enjoyed a sampler plate of pork belly wraps, Brussels sprouts and biscuits with ham and other toppings. To drink we sipped on the signature cocktail, the Cochon, made with a mix of bourbon, maple syrup and Cointreau liqueur with candied bacon on the rim of the glass. Yummmm!

Next, we walked amongst the tourists through Jackson Hole Square to Sweetwater Restaurant where we enjoyed outdoor seating. Here we all went for seconds on the pork tenderloin.

Our bellies were already getting full, but we pushed on to the next restaurant called Gather where we delighted their spicy signature limeade caliente cocktail made with Jalapeno Tequila. It was so delicious we bought some Jalapeno Tequila later on in our trip! Mike ate Sharon’s oyster, but we both enjoyed the Brussels sprouts and candied bacon, and a savory pork dumpling! To die for!

At the Lotus Café we enjoyed an unusual, but tasty organic salad accompanied by a prickly pear concoction.

Finally, a meal is not complete without dessert so we stopped at the Persephone Bakery and enjoyed a cup of coffee and a trio of heavenly desserts!

It was a decadent day of culinary delights! And our guide, Clarke made it an interesting and light-hearted affair! We enjoyed the food tour immensely and would highly recommend it if you are ever in Jackson Hole. See www.jhfoodtours.com.

A journalist with the Jackson Hole News, along with a photographer accompanied us on the tour.  We later met a docent at The Miller House (see below) who noticed us in a photo in the July 1^st edition of the newspaper that featured the Food Tour, and sent us the news clipping and photo! It didn’t make front page news, but there we were -- part of the Jackson Hole scene! LOL

National Elk Refuge & Miller Ranch

We took a drive through the Elk Refuge in Jackson Hole. The refuge provides, preserves, restores, and manages winter habitat for the nationally significant Jackson Elk Herd as well as habitat for endangered species, birds, fish, and other big game animals. The refuge celebrated its centennial in 2012. The photo below from the website below shows a herd of Elk in the winter!

In 1910, Stephen Leek attracted national attention by his writings, photographs and lectures about starving elk in the Jackson area. That same year, the Wyoming Legislature appropriated $5,000 for Leek to feed hay on his property south of the town of Jackson to purchase all available hay from local ranchers. The following year, the Wyoming Legislature asked the U.S. Congress to cooperate with the State of Wyoming in feeding, protecting and preserving big game.  Congress responded by appropriating $20,000 to feed, restock and investigate the elk situation. Following a biological study, The National Elk Refuge was established by various Acts of Congress and on August 10, 1912 the main Act of Congress set aside lands “for the establishment of a winter game (elk) reserve in the State of Wyoming…”

Although there were no Elk in the refuge this time of year, Sharon spotted a coyote in the grass hunting for the meadow voles. The meadow voles were all standing up on the look-out for the approaching coyote!

Also on the Elk Refuge property is the historic Miller House where we met Kate, who 

stayed on-site in her RV and volunteered as a docent during the summer months. (She is the person who sent us the photo and newspaper clipping about the food tour). The Miller Ranch is located at the foot of the Gros Ventre Mountains with a commanding view of the Teton Range. The Miller Ranch has been an integral part of the evolving settlement history of the Jackson Hole Valley for over 100 years. The Miller Ranch represents the coming together of settlement, ranching, and conservation in this isolated valley. Today, this valuable link to the past is owned and maintained by the National Elk Refuge.

Robert Miller, born in Argyle, Wisconsin, arrived in Jackson Hole in 1885.  He chose a homestead site that had a large spring nearby and included a cabin said to have been built by an outlaw named Teton Jackson.  At the time, Miller’s homestead claim was only the third to be filed in the Jackson Hole valley. In 1893 Miller returned east, married and returned to Jackson Hole to begin construction of a two-story log home, the home that is known today as the Miller House.

One rainy day, Mike took a drive to Jackson Hole without Sharon. As he came upon the Elk Refuge he notice a lone Moose so he stopped to capture the moment!

Cowboy Shoot-out

Our Wyoming experience would not be complete with experiencing a shoot-out in Jackson Hole’s Town Square! The Town Square is marked by four magnificent elk antler arches. We walked around the square, took a peek inside the shops and we saddled up to the bar for lunch at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, famous for its western cowboy flare motif, complete with a large collection of western memorabilia, unique knobbled pine architecture, cowboy murals, animal mounts, and genuine saddle barstools!

Around 6:00 tourists started gathering around the cowboys and showgirls that began to congregate at what would be a shoot-out at the Town Square! 

As the Sheriff and his deputies prevailed and the bad guys dropped, a little Buckaroo with a wheel barrel would scurry about picking up the undertaker’s next customers!

True West Wagon Train Experience

Sharon found the perfect western “tourist” adventure, one that Mike went along with and it was one of the highlights of Jackson Hole. We arrived at the Bar T 5 Ranch to travel by horse drawn covered wagons from the Town of Jackson Hole into beautiful Cache Creek Canyon. We felt like early pioneers on a real wagon train travelling through the West complete with cowboys and Indians.

As we pulled into camp we could smell the sweet aroma of a Dutch oven dinner. We sat down at a picnic table with Laura, her two grandkids, Chris and Rodney from Olympia, Washington, and Amanda, her daughter from Jackson Hole.

After going through the chow line we enjoyed our cowboy dinner while we talked with our new friends. We struck up a friendship and after telling them of our RV adventures, Laura invited us to visit with her and her husband Steve in Olympia, Washington when we got to Gig Harbor, Washington in August. We would take her up on that invitation!

Now came the show with music and singing by the Bar T 5 Band, and good ole fashioned western entertainment! Laura's grandkids, Chris and Rodney even got in on the performance!

Next time we will have to take the four-day, three-night wagon-train adventure of a lifetime! Take a look at www.tetonwagontrain.com.

Museums in Jackson Hole

Jackson Hole Historical Society & Museum

We toured two locations of this museum that included exhibits of archeology and Native Americans, hunting and fishing, homesteading and ranching and dude ranching. We also learned a lot about the history of the Fur Trade Era, Jackson Hole and the Pronghorn -- “Speed Goats” of the West.

 

National Museum of Wildlife Art

In 1987, the Museum was founded in Jackson Hole, with a prestigious collection of wildlife art donated by Joffa and Bill Kerr.  Museum founders recognized that the Museum’s collection and the abundant natural resources of this unique setting would provide educational opportunities not available anywhere else in the United States. In September, 1994, the Museum opened the current 51,000 square-foot facility designed by C.W. Fentress, J.H. Bradburn and Associates of Denver, Colorado.  Irregular lines and the use of Idaho quartzite allow the building to blend into the rugged hillside overlooking the National Elk Refuge.

More than 550 artists and over 5,000 catalogued items are represented in the Museum’s collections. Featured artists include John J. Audubon, Antoine-Louis Barye, Albert Bierstadt, Rosa Bonheur, George Catlin, William Merritt Chase, John Clymer, Edward Hicks, Robert Kuhn, Alfred Jacob Miller, Carl Rungius, Charlie Russell and two of Sharon’s favorites, Robert Bateman and Georgia O’Keeffe.

And along the Sculpture Trail on the exterior of the museum is an outdoor art venue, designed by award-winning landscape architect, Walter Hood. The trail features nearly 30 permanent and temporary works of art.

While in downtown Jackson Hole, we enjoyed lunch at the Noodle Kitchen with open-air windows to the street!

Silversmithing Class in Jackson Hole

Sharon could not resist the opportunity

to take a silversmithing class through the 

Jackson Hole Art Association. 

She left the class with a handmade pendant

set with a jasper stone she picked up in 

Texas last winter.

Following class, Mike picked Sharon up and the celebrated her birthday at a charming refurbished old house called The Blue Lion. Sharon enjoyed the roast rack of lamb and Mike had the grilled Elk tenderloin.

Raptor Encounter in Wilson

On the way to the Teton Raptor Center we stopped to see a cow moose with two calves in a meadow along the side of the highway.

The Teton Raptor Center is a non-profit organization of conservation biologists, veterinarians, wildlife rehabilitators and volunteers who collectively help birds of prey and promote environmental health. The center has several raptors that are permanent residents. They can’t be released back into the wild because of injuries they have sustained that would prevent them from being successful hunters. The raptors serve as ambassadors for their species, allowing visitors a unique learning experience.

Featured birds included Baxter the Peregrine Falcon, Owly the Great Horned Owl, Gus the Golden Eagle and Ruby the Red-Tailed Hawk.

DUBOIS, WY

On our way to Moran, WY we drove through Dubois and over Togwotee Pass, the 9,658 foot summit located on the continental divide in the Absaroka Mountains between Dubois and Moran. The town of Dubois was very quaint so we wanted to take a scenic drive back to explore what it had to offer.

We visited the General Store below and talked with a cowboy whose family owned the store for generations. He pointed out the cold storage across the street that had been used for fruits, vegetables and meats in the early days.

  

 

 Unfortunatley the Antler Gallery was closed the day we passed through!

Western Artist & Ancestral Tool Maker – Tom Lucas

We stopped at the Silver Sage Gallery and talked with western artist, Tom Lucas. He was creating an oil painting from a picture of an old wooden cattle loading chute. What was interesting is that he was going to frame it in a stirrup. His desire to be a Western artist stems from his lifestyle as a cowboy, mountain man and outdoorsman. “When I get an idea in my head I’m a little like a dog with a bone, I don’t want to let go of it.” 

We later found out from the Dubois Museum that Tom amassed a collection of Native American and cowboy artifacts as well as an unmatched working knowledge of the actual methods of ancestral tool making.  His passion of ancestral tool making has led him to be documented on PBS in such films as, “Sheep Eaters: Life in the Mountains and Archers of the Yellowstone”.  






Visit Tom’s website at www.tomlucas.us. Talking with locals is always a highlight of our adventures! More on Tom’s toolmaking below under Dubois Museum!

We also enjoyed the Horse Creek Gallery featuring Monte Baker’s Antler Carvings. Visit www.montebakerantlercarving.com.

National Bighorn Sheep Center

Bighorn sheep are an iconic species of the American West that are large, wild ungulates native to western rocky and arid land. Their preferred habitats are barren and rugged areas containing steep hillsides or rocky outcrops that can be used to avoid predators. See postcard below.

After lunch we stopped at the National Bighorn Sheep Center. Just outside Dubois stands Whiskey Mountain, home to the largest wintering Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep herd in North America. 

During the summer months, the Bighorn Sheep are illusive and mysterious as we found out when we drove through Forest Service Road 411 on our quest to see Bighorn Sheep of which we found none!! But it was a beautiful drive.

Dubois Museum and Wind River Historical Center

The Dubois Museum collects, preserves and interprets the history of the Upper Wind River Valley. A walk through the museum focused on the Mountain Shoshone (Sheep Eaters) who were prehistoric inhabitants of the valley, the homesteaders who settled in the late 1800s, the Scandinavian loggers (tie hacks) who cut railroad ties for the nation’s railroads, and dude ranches including the CM Ranch, one of the two oldest continuously operating guest ranches in the state.

One of the exhibits we found interesting was the wooden trapper that survived a fire that ravaged this historic town of Dubois in subzero temperatures in December, 2014 that left charred buildings covered in ice.   Firefighters had to contend with frozen hoses and other equipment problems as they battled the blaze through the night, when the mercury plunged to 25 degrees below zero.

Another exhibit was about the Native Americans and included several handmade items by Western artist and Ancestral Tool Maker --Tom Lucas. The museum also featured a video on Tom Lucas making a handmade Sheepeater Horn bow constructed of Bighorn Sheep horns, animal sinew and hide glue.

In addition to the museum, there were seven historic cabins on the grounds for 

touring.

Scenic Drives

Along the drive to Jackson Hole and off the main highway near the Teton Range we discovered many roads less travelled.

Antelope Flats

Cunningham Cabin

Along the Cunningham homestead and throughout Jackson Hole you’ll see “buck-and-rail” fences which were an innovation of the first pioneer ranchers. This fencing system is named for the X-shaped braces or “cross bucks” used to support the horizontal “rails.” The fences are self-supporting and used where rails were easily obtained.

The Cunningham Cabin and surrounding land was established as the Bar Flying U Ranch by J. Pierce Cunningham in the 1880s. The Cunningham Cabin is one of the best of the few remaining homestead cabins in Jackson Hole.

Gros Ventre Junction

Mormon Row

Schwabacher Road

Shadow Mountain

Turpin Meadow Drive

This drive was actually just down the road from our RV Park where we some Elk with a calf, ate lunch at a local cafe and enjoyed the meadows along the way. Mike got out of the Jeep and took the camera to see if you could find the Elk while Sharon stayed. But Sharon spotted the Elk instead and all she had was her phone to snap some photos while she motioned for Mike to get back to the Jeep with the camera!!

While in Wyoming, no dust settled under our boots and no stones were left unturned during the month of June! If you have never been to Yellowstone National Park or Grand Teton National Park, these are magical places to discover on your own, a true adventure!

We now head to Livingston, MT at the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park where there is even more to explore such as Bear Tooth Pass and the town of Cody and Mike hires a guide to do some fly fishing on the Yellowstone River! Stay tuned!

Mike & Sharon

 “My heart is tuned to the quietness that the stillness of nature inspires.”

Hazrat Inayat Khan (1882 – 1927)